Cahuita's
14 km of beaches are shaded by palm trees, lush forests,
marshlands, and mangroves. Together they make up Cahuita
National Park (1,067 hectares), created in 1970 to protect
the 240 hectares of offshore coral reef that distinguish
this park from its siblings. Animal life abounds in
the diverse habitats behind the beach--an ideal place
to catch a glimpse of tamanduas, pacas, coatis, raccoons,
tree-dwelling sloths, agoutis, armadillos, iguanas,
and, of course, troops of howler and capuchin monkeys
that come down to the shore.
The
park is a good place, too, to focus your binoculars
on a green ibis, rufous kingfisher, or low swooping
Swainson and keel-billed toucans. Other birds include
the Central American curassow and large groups of
nesting parrots (and even, Dec.-Feb., macaws). Cahuita's
freshwater rivers and estuaries are also good places
to spot caimans and herons. Snakes--watch your step!--are
commonly seen along the trail. And red land crabs
and bright blue fiddler crabs--the latter with oversized
claws--inhabit the shores.
The
reef off Punta Cahuita protects the northern stretch
of the beautiful scimitar beach to the south. Smooth
water here provides good swimming; it's possible to
wade out at knee level. At the southern end of the
park, beyond the reef, huge waves lunge onto the beach--a
nesting site for three species of turtles--where tide
pools form at low tide. Check with rangers about currents
and where you can walk or snorkel safely.
The
coral reef lies offshore north off Puerto Vargas.
Snorkelers can try their luck near Cahuita Point or
Punta Vargas (you must enter the water from the beach
on the Punta Vargas side and swim out to the reef);
you can also hire a local resident to take you out
farther by boat. On the sea floor are massive brain
corals and delicate, branching sea fans and feathers;
nearer the surface are elkhorn corals, frondlike gorgonians
spreading their fingers upward toward the light, lacy
outcrops of tubipora--like delicately woven Spanish
mantillas--and soft flowering corals swaying to the
rhythms of the ocean currents.
Up
to 500 species of fish gambol among the exquisite
reefs. Here, amid sprawling thickets of bright blue
staghorn, great rosettes of pale mauve brain coral,
and dazzling yellow tubastras almost luminescent in
the bright sunlight, a multicolored extravaganza of
polka-dotted, piebald-dappled, zebra-striped fish
protect their diminutive plots of liquid real estate
among the reef's crowded underwater condominiums.
Cahuita National Park
Besides
what remains of the beautiful coral, there are two
old shipwrecks about seven meters below the surface,
both with visible ballast and cannons; one wreck has
two cannons, and the second, a more exposed site,
has 13. The average depth is six meters. The best
time for diving and snorkeling is during the dry season,
February-April; water clarity during the rest of year
is not good because of silt brought by rivers emptying
from the Talamanca mountains.
Information
A footbridge leads into the park from the Kelly Creek
Ranger Station (run by a local committee) at the southern
end of Cahuita village. Kelly Creek is shallow and
easily waded. A shady seven-km nature trail leads
from the Kelly Creek Ranger Station to the Puerto
Vargas Ranger Station, tel. 755-0302, three km south
of Cahuita mid-way along the park. The nature trail
walk takes about two hours with time to stop for a
swim. You must wade the Perozoso ("Sloth")
River--its waters stained dark brown by tannins--just
west of Punta Cahuita.
The
main park entrance is about 400 meters west Hwy. 36,
about three km south of Cahuita (the Sixaola-bound
bus will drop you off near the entrance). You can
drive to the Puerto Vargas administrative center from
here via dirt road. The Puerto Vargas entrance gate
is locked after hours.
Both
entrance stations are open Mon.-Fri. 8 a.m.-4 p.m.,
and weekends 7 a.m.-5 p.m. Entrance costs $6 at Parque
Vargas, and by donation at Kelly Creek. Don't forget
your insect repellent and sunscreen. Don't leave your
gear unattended, as theft is a problem. A museum is
planned.
